Thursday 12th was interesting. As I left off on my last entry, we were at Port Sudan and the clock was ticking. After paying a fee (we didn't really work out what for) of $80 each, we left about 3.30pm for the 700km drive to Gederef. And what a drive it was.
Mostly on one road, it this varied from decent tarmac to moon surface and switched from one to the other with no warning. The problem was that at night (which fell just 3 hours from departure), we couldn't see the rough stuff until too late - unless we were to drive at 30mph the whole way which clearly was not practical with a 7.30 start the next day from Gedaref.
We hit one rough section being able to brake only to about 60 (remembering to come off the brakes just before hitting to allow some suspension travel) and we just bounced in the air from the pot holes - crash bang wallop. We were sure we must have damaged something but apart from some evidence of body flexing, we can't find anything. They build 'em tough at Langworth Motorsport in Lincoln.
Eventually, we tucked behind the Datsun 240Z of Grant and Simon who were themselves tucked behind a pickup of the police who were looking after us along the route. He knew the road and would take us up to 90+ and suddenly put on his hazard lights and slow right down to negotiate some moonscape at no more than 10mph. Then it was off again at full pelt.
We were truly knackered by the time we arrived at 12.30 but thought we had better fill up with fuel at the local station with a policeman minder in tow. This turned out to be right across from a Sudanese disco and the car was quickly surrounded by about 30 young lads who were boisterous but friendly (no alcohol in Sudan - at least that we found). Our policeman was a bit concerned though, as more poured out of the club, and called for back-up. They must have been nearby because 2 minutes later, a truckload of armed police screeched into the garage and the lads scarpered immediately. You obviously don't mess with these guys. To be fair to them, they looked after us well.
The first 3 hours of the drive gave us a limited chance to see some of Sudan - the bit that we saw at first being a beautiful desert backdrop to a gorgeous sunset. The local inhabitants obviously have it tough. Some had made huts out of various corrugated iron sheets and whatever they could find and others lived in tents of various shapes and sizes. I remember the same feeling in India in 2004 on the London - Sydney Rally, seeing people who quite obviously have nothing eeking out whatever living they can on the edge of a desert, while we whizz by in our western cars feels wrong. Some might call it an outrageous liberty. This is one of the reasons I am trying to raise funds for African Revival and am carrying books to help set up a school library. If we can make a difference from our travels somewhere en route then we should.
Some of the others had worse luck on the Gedaref drive. One of the Toyotas hit a donkey in the dark - a common hazard apparently as they just wander about. Others were showing a few body cracks and creases on the cars from hitting deep hidden pot holes a bit too hard.
Not much time to look at the car today (13th) and it was off early for the 100 mile drive to the Ethiopian border. As we travelled, the countryside began to get greener and this seemed to start in earnest at the border. The border process was efficiently handled and we were on our way in about 90 mins which rather caught the organisers by surprise. The reception we received wherever we travelled today was fantastic. School children had been given time off to cheer us through towns and villages on the route and seemingly most other villagers came to see what was happening. The main streets were lined with people clapping in a very civilized way for every car that came through and waving banners - Welcome to Ethiopia. We really couldn't have had a more friendly welcome. They were also very curious about the cars and us coming up when we stopped to have a chat. One was practicing his English on the rally plates. "Shouldn't it be From London to Cape Town Rally rather than The London to Cape Town Rally?", he asked. I referred him to Bob.
Then off for a couple of competitive sections in the twisty mountain roads designed to test a loaded car's ability to drag itself up more then 2000 metres. Most managed this. Then, 3 hours to get to our night halt at Bahir Dar which backs onto a beautiful lake.
So far, we have seen little evidence of the distress suffered in past years in Ethiopia - just lots of smiling faces and interest in the rally, the cars and curiosity about us (and we must look an odd bunch). But you can sense that the concern remains there under the surface. When it rains, as it did today, people are happier and they can manage for themselves; the land is basically very fertile and we saw evidence of that everywhere. When it doesn't, they don't have much to fall back on.
Tomorrow it is back to the gravel with a long gravel competitive section and 750km total to our next halt still in Ethiopia. Another very long day but at least in daylight.
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